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French River
Autumn colours make paddling the French River Provincial Park an absolute dreamscape. You may have travelled this waterway earlier in the year, but now the crisp air combines with leaves painted brilliant red, deep purple and bright yellow to create a truly enchanted season.
Set in one of Ontario’s most captivating and dramatic landscapes, the French River is a paddler’s dream come true. This easily accessible waterway provides the perfect getaway for both canoeists and kayakers.
But it’s not just about the scenery. There’s also an intriguing sense of history that draws visitors to the French River. Travelling it today produces a kinship with explorers and the legendary voyageurs. Thankfully our modern-day lightweight canoes don’t compare to the 36-foot birch bark canot du maitre. However, the prospect of the adventure is much the same.
Recognizing its role in history, the French was designated a Canadian Heritage River in 1986. Today, it offers 110 kilometres of exceptional canoeing and kayaking for both the novice and avid modern-day explorer.
This is a paddling destination with many options. Many first-timers consider the main route of the French River to be a simple downstream run from Lake Nipissing to Georgian Bay. However, this trip requires endurance, a lengthy car shuttle and as much as two weeks of vacation time. You may want to choose from a number of three to five-day loop routes.
Week-long excursions on the upper French River include circling Eighteen Mile Island, combining portions of Restoule Provincial Park with sections of the French River, and Lake Nipissing. This area provides navigable rapids, short portages and pine-clad campsites.
The lower French River, known as the Delta, is more popular with kayakers. Portages are few or non-existent on many of the loops and most of the trips allow for a taste of what it’s like to travel out on Georgian Bay. Please note that during the fall, winds and waves can make paddling on open water more difficult.
Ask an Expert
Cooler nights are almost a certainty during a fall trip. Here are a few tips to help keep out the chill.
With less daylight it may take longer to set up camp, so consider ending earlier in the day.
Avoid more exposed campsites. Choose one that’s in a well-protected forested area, well away from the wind.
Make sure to provide a lot of ventilation inside the tent. Breathing will lead to condensation which may cause fine ice particles to form inside the tent. In turn, they will eventually melt possibly soaking some items.
The moment you finish setting up camp, change into an extra dry pair of long underwear and socks and wear a wool toque to bed.
Sleep on a thick foam pad, not an air-mattress. The foam pad is a better insulator.
Take a three-season sleeping bag and fluff it before crawling in. This action creates more air space between the fibres or feathers.
Use a liner to increase the efficiency of your sleeping bag. Or better yet, double up two sleeping bags and share your warmth with a partner.
Munch on high calorie snacks just before bedtime. The fuel your body has to burn off will help you stay warmer.
If you find yourself shivering inside your sleeping bag, put on your rain gear to act as a vapour barrier and hold in your body heat.
If it’s unusually cold, store your water bottle inside your sleeping bag to keep it from freezing. Remember, a container filled with hot tea provides extra heat. Also put the next day's clothes, and especially boot liners, inside the bag.
Did You Know
The French River area is home to many rare species of fauna and flora, the most noteworthy being the endangered Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake. However, recent evidence suggests that Ontario’s only venomous snake may be making a recovery.
The Massasauga rattlesnake is most commonly seen in the lowland swamps and rocky islands of the lower delta system of the French River. This season, there have been more sightings farther upstream near Lake Nipissing and Restoule Provincial Park, a sign that its future may be brighter.
Habitat loss has always been one of the biggest problems facing the Eastern Massasauga. It was once common throughout southern Ontario until agriculture and urban development drastically altered the landscape. It has also been killed in great numbers which is truly unfortunate as it is timid and reclusive by nature.
French River Visitor Centre
While this is clearly a provincial park which should be explored by water, there is a new addition well worth discovering that can be reached by car or RV – the French River Visitor Centre.
It’s located next to the bridge where Highway 69 crosses the French River. This traditional rest stop for travellers heading north now has an architecturally distinctive building. It features a combination of 200-year-old artifacts and contemporary exhibits showcasing the park’s natural heritage, the culture of the Aboriginal people who travelled the French River and the fur trade. You’ll also find tourism information and helpful Ontario Parks’ staff. The centre is open until October 8th.
Famous Footsteps
In 1610, Etienne Brûlé, a pathfinder for Samuel de Champlain, was taken to live in an Algonquin village on an island in the Ottawa River. From there, he explored the surrounding countryside and learned the Algonquin and Huron languages and customs so that he could act as a translator and ambassador for Champlain.
After spending the winter with both the Algonquin and Huron, Brûlé returned to Quebec. Champlain wrote that Brûlé arrived with two hundred Huron warriors, and was dressed as one of them, “He was pleased with the treatment he had received. He explained to me everything he had seen over the winter and what he had learned from them. He had learned their language well.”
In 1615, Brûlé met Champlain and accompanied him to Huronia. Brûlé acted as translator and helped Champlain to cement the alliance between the Huron and the French. Over the following years, Brûlé travelled throughout the Great Lakes area, and is thought to be the first European to see Lake Superior.
Recipe - Mock Shepherd’s Pie
Ingredients:
1 cup pre-cooked rice
1 cup bread crumbs
1 cup mixed dehydrated vegetables (peas, carrots, onion, green pepper)
1/4 cup dehydrated mushrooms
pinch of parsley
pinch of garlic powder
1/2 cup of bulgar
1 cup potato flakes
1 beef bouillon cube
dash of Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. tomato or spaghetti sauce powder
Directions:
Combine the pre-cooked rice, vegetables, mushrooms, parsley, garlic powder, beef bouillon cube and tomato powder into two cups boiling water and let simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat and mix in bread crumbs. Let stand for five minutes. Then place bulgar into two cups boiling water and let simmer for five minutes. Add a dash of Worcestershire sauce and combine with the rice and bread crumbs. Finally, slowly add water to potato flakes until fluffy and place on top.
Nearby and Interesting
Be sure to stop at Ontario Parks French River Visitor Centre located on Hwy 69 at French River. But hurry, it is only open until October 8th. Call 705-857-1630 for more details.
The City of Greater Sudbury has some great attractions including Science North and Dynamic Earth
Located about an hour away, Killarney is well worth a visit. Some key highlights include:
Herbert Fish & Chips is world famous and shouldn’t be missed. It's located on the main street of Killarney, (705) 287-2214. It is open until October 8th.
Killarney Mountain Lodge and Outfitters
Killarney Museum, located on Commissioner’s Street in Killarney
Share a Tale or Say It with Photos
"We had a fantastic vacation at Grundy Lake Provincial Park," writes Rod, "It was our first visit, but definitely not our last. We stayed for 10 days, had a blast and could have stayed another week. There was so much variety between the different lakes and beaches, the jumping rocks, nature trails and even being so close to Sudbury with Science North and the big Nickel. Attached is a picture of my youngest son Sebastian fishing on Grundy Lake on our last night. Thanks for a great summer vacation."
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